Another Sunny Day in Paris

Candy vendor on Rue St. Germaine 

Back of Notre Dame

Leaving the little Island on the Seine

I think that the Parisians have 3 sports. The first is walking the streets, the second is window shopping - just gazing in all the store windows, and according to a very voluble couple that sat with us outside a cafe - demonstrating. We think it was a mother and son ( he was in his 20's works in banking trying to find money laundering in stocks - he found Wolf of Wallstreet funny) - he claimed his mother will demonstrate even if she doesn't agree with the cause. She engaged us and would only speak french and despite knowing that I did not know the language, would look imploringly at me and say another emphatic statement and wait for my response. That day she was protesting against paying for surrogate mothers. She has been to Vancouver and hates Canadian food. She was very impressed with Joop - loved his french - didn't get that he was not absorbing all that she said - gave him a slim novel that is supposed to be like the Little Prince. They were quite emphatic that we see Victor Hugo's home. We tried to. But the lineup was too long. I've decided that all Parisians read very slim novels - just pull up to a cafe, bring out the smokes, order the small cafe and start to read the very slim book. I don't even think we sell such slim books. Hardly anyone reads a kindle. The demonstrations meant that all the police were on red alert - nothing but police vans lined up along the Seine - just all full of police. I was worried that perhaps they were all reacting to a potential bomb threat. 

We decided to find this repurposed railway line that is in the Marais district across the Seine. Some delightful young Mechanical engineer Phd's told us at Starbucks that we must do the walk because the vistas are so lovely. After 2 hours of walking to get there - traversing both islands on the Seine - the vistas were not too impressive. I think they must have found the structures of the rooflines so great. We didn't do the full 4.5 kms because we were quite tuckered - so to give them their due - perhaps the vistas were at the end. 

Cherry blossoms Feb 2 Paris

On the green elevated walkway that used to be train tracks

The crowds of people that just walk the streets

We then tried to see Victor Hugo's home at the Place  des Vosges - walked forever around just to find it at the last corner of the square with a huge lineup. We ducked out and went to quite a lovely museum Musee Carnavalet. You just have to love those court yards. I was especially impressed by a gargantuan painting done in the 17th century when those Dutch did not have a sniff of the existence of women - the French painting was not so dark and had plenty of lovely women. At least the french were aware of women back then. When we left the museum just about to cross the Place des Vosges square I noticed 4 people that I thought looked exceptionally stylish. I was amazed to hear them speak english - they appeared to be Brits. We were so fatigued from walking for 4 hours that we decided to nip into a Chilean bar for a quick drink. Just before finishing our drinks the very stylish foursome that I had noticed before came and sat down across from us. As we tried to leave they called over and insisted that we join them because we looked so interesting to them and so healthy?? Then ensued a most chaotic and wild night. Two of them were brothers from London and their wives. They were amazingly delightful people - so fun. The one brother Jimmy is a famous DJ and tv editor as well as singer/songwriter whose songs still get airplay and hence royalties. He was most emphatic that we must get ourselves to Berlin. It is to him the most amazing city ever. I chimed in that my sister Miranda claims the same thing. So now Joop and I will touch down in London and stay with them  at their house that has an outdoor bar(?) while heading to Berlin "before it is too late".

Inner courtyard of Museum Carnavalet

Hordes of people on the streets 200 years ago

Joop in the tiniest elevator in the world.

Staircase in our hotel

One of the things that has amazed me is how the 5 toe Vibram has not touched down in Europe yet. You can imagine the number of people on the streets that stop and stare at my feet - even going so far as to take pictures. I am wearing my most discrete ones I think - the brown kangaroo leather - but even those are causing a sensation. I saw one guy on the upper railway tracks with a pair. He looked like a young Turkish guy - you should have seen the excitement on his face when I walked by and he saw my 5 toe wonders. He grabbed his friends and talked and pointed excitedly. I was too shy to stop and talk to my infinite regret. The sadness I felt about not stopping and talking to him when he was smiling at me so broadly - didn't leave for several hours. I berated myself for my shyness. There are way less significant things to bond over. I could have waxed on and on about how my 5 toes have made Paris for me - walking sometime 6 hours per day with not one ailment - doesn't get better. And even our hotel - as you can see - the elevator can barely fit even one person - it is a real close call if the doors will shut with Joop, me and my metro standing in the elevator. It means that we must traverse the 4 flights of stairs by foot. I know that I would be incapable without my 5 toes with the stair runner slippage and the tiny purchase for feet on the treads that turn - a death defying decent every time.

Paris first few days

Cheshire cat on train from Amsterdam to Paris 

View from our Hotel Atlantis looking up the St. Sulpice towards the Seine.

The window in our hotel room

An incredibly tattered luxury bathrobe hanging for guest's use.

Heading out to Joop's birthday dinner

We arrived in good form after the rapid train ride. Travelling at 300km/hr made the cars on the highway look like they were standing still. We travelled in 1st class and were given much food and drink on the short 3 hour journey. I was busy sewing and repairing the metro which made Joop feel that I would miss out on the changing landscape. I really didn't notice major scenery differences. I thought the views of Brussels made the city seem way more depressed economically than the Dutch towns. 

I was amazed by the uniformness of Paris - it is mesmerizing to be in a place where the buildings are all the same soft limestone colour with the elaborate black iron balconies. It is very pretty but so much the same. I don't remember anyone mentioning that to me before. The other thing that immediately stood out is the funeral nature of everyone walking around - all of the black. I ended up feeling quite sanctimonious about our coloured clothing. We are attempting to get the feel of the city by just meandering about - no real destinations for awhile. 

The neighbourhood where we are staying is very posh - nothing but designer boutiques. I have yet to feel a strong urge to buy anything - the prices are so dear.  I must admit though that the clothes and shoes are beautiful. 

The streets are way less crowded than Amsterdam - probably because the city is so much bigger.

The beautiful Art deco dining room of Bouillon Racine

This is the restaurant where we had Joop's birthday dinner. The food was supremely tastey. Despite the talk of the abrupt rude french almost all of the serving staff  we have encountered have been most gracious and friendly. I don't even feel that badly about my non existent french. After a few days here however I must say that a person suffering from Wheat allergy, fish sensitivity and a love of vegetables has a hard time procuring food. Paris of all places. I am finding it quite hard to eat. They are not big on meal sized salads or vegetables that don't include fish. Supper is almost always pork, lamb or duck - no chicken to be found for love or money and don't try to order vegetables - some places actually turn you away - "no vegetables here". Maybe I'll fade away. Probably not too much damage can occur in one week and I have a good supply of spanish clementines.

Joop has found the morning croissant and coffee too dear at 6 -7 euros for a tablespoon of coffee with the croissant. Needless to say we park ourselves at Starbucks in the morning to be able to stave off our gargantuan North american appetite for tea and coffee - thank god for venti. 

Standing in front of Notre Dame

Statue outside Notre Dame - I love the horse

Joop in front of the Seine with its too rapid current

Joop's natural beer fridge

View from Starbucks 

The infamous Magots where a teensy cup of cafe costs 8 euros

Walking in Amsterdam

Royal Palace

Royal Palace 1600's

Our Hotel - fittingly called Hotel Amsterdam is just a few feet from the Palace square - supposedly a  historic meeting place since the 17th century as you can see from the above painting which I photographed at the Rijks museum. We visited the Palace yesterday - not the Royal family's primary residence - but apparently they sometimes put up important guests there. It would be dreadful to live in a Palace. So cold and awful - not necessarily temperature wise. All of the marble and huge ceilings and furniture from the 17th century pushed symmetrically against the walls. And then the horror of those massive paintings from the 17th century- of all these men grouped together against a dark background- paintings that sometimes are 7 meters by 6 meters - larger than life horrors. Not a woman to be seen - maybe just the occasional dog that I have termed the taxidermied dog of all 17th century Dutch painters - they must have all shared this dog that looks like an springer spaniel leaping up. It was weird to see the same dog in the same position in all of these different paintings from different Dutch artists including Rembrandt, who as Joop says was not capable of painting an animal or child ( I agree heartily).

Amsterdam at night

I'm trying to see if any visible differences exist between the people walking and cycling through Amsterdam and a city in North America. The bikes are very different of course - all upright - many with people talking on their cell phone with one hand and delicately steering with their other hand - seemingly only possible through the use of foot pedal brakes, Fashion for women seems quite universal - many women walk by our hotel clutching their H& M bags. The young men have a slightly different look compared to the same 20 somethings in Canada. I can't quite put my finger on it. I think the dutch haircuts seem a bit shorter, maybe the pant legs a bit tighter and definitely no runners to be seen -mostly nice leather shoes. To be twenty something in Amsterdam would be to feel like you were in the centre of the Universe - nothing but huge groups of people in their twenties - biking about, coffeeing about... Looks so exciting. Weirdly when I was in the UK in the mid 80's there was this pant style that has never taken off in NA - a very droopy crotch and tight calves. It has reappeared at least in Holland as a very current look. Despite the plethora of other types of cafes - Starbucks is still my favourite place to haunt. Joop claims their coffee is better than the Dutch coffee of which he was once (even just 7 years ago) so fond. Food is a bit tenuous to procure if you don't eat wheat. The dutch love their breads and pastries. I am impressed with their vegetables. They serve small amounts of many different types - perfect nutrition. Maybe that is why they are so tall. In Amsterdam most of the people are normal weight or slim. The first two people that I saw that had that ubiquitous truncal fat that seems so common in NA- I hovered near to see where they seemed to be from - sure enough - Canada! Of all the hundreds of people that you see - these two stood out as being the first that had that shape. Sadly they were youngish women in their 30's. Since all the eating is similar - I really have to believe that it is mostly sitting that must cause it - not enough walking and biking.

Dog working for a living in downtown Amsterdam

Begijnenhof

This picture of Joop and me is from this little enclave hidden in the middle of Amsterdam. It is so removed from the hustle and bustle of streets packed with walkers and cyclists. It was the area where these Catholic women lived since the 1400's who had chosen a life of service for the poor and sick without taking their religious vows - so nuns but not nuns. They lived for hundreds of years here until the 1970's even though for a lot of the time Catholicism was illegal. The group still owns the buildings despite the active order having died out in the 70's. They still rent it out to only women - I think they somehow subsidize these 60 women that get to live here in all the apartments. It is such a lovely spot to be able to live. There are even little vegetable gardens.

House from 15th century that didn't burn down

Vondelpark near Joop's childhood home

Oranje Nassaulaan 13 Amsterdam

This is Joop standing in front of his childhood home. It is currently owned by a famed dutch fashion designer - Frans Molenaar. Joop's family lived in the four storey home from the late 30's until the late 70's when his father died. Feeling incredibly brave (with my encouragement) Joop knocked on the door. Frans answered and when he realized that Joop was Professor Dooyeweerd's son - invited us in for a tour. The first floor that used to be a salon, kitchen, music room etc.. has been Fran's atelier for his fashion house. There were racks of his designs near the back. Every floor has been gutted and is now only one big room per floor. On the second floor that used to be Joop's father's study and another bedroom Frans has transformed into golden splendour. The photo below does not do the goldness of everything justice. I have not seen a room like it. It kind of reminded my of decorating books from the 70's where everything is just from that period - like a show home. Joop was very gracious and enthusiastic about it all. Trudging up another long steep staircase we came to the black and white marvel that was his bedroom - again - not one thing that was not black and white -statues in little niches everywhere - Frans was especially proud of the black glass blown chandelier that he spotted in a magazine lying on the road somewhere, the pages flapping in the wind and Frans deciding right there and then that he must have it.

The backyard of Joop's childhood home

Living room of Frans Molenaar

Frans Molenaar

Staircase of childhood home

Every staircase was a visual extravaganza of all of Frans' fashion shoots, models etc... some even dating back to the early 60's. He proudly stopped us at pictures of him with many famous people that he worked with and partied with - Frans and Andy Warhol, Frans and Yves St. Laurent,  Liza Minnelli  etc... You get the picture. It was so wonderful to be able to be in the house where there are so many stories of Joop growing up... The time he scampered on the roof near the hook which you can see in the adjacent house (used for getting furniture in and out of the top floors) and nearly caused heart failure in the residents of the seniors home across the street... the hiding of the jewish people in the war in the attic...the many rooms that he slept in including his father's bathroom which is now Frans' kitchen, it was amazing to picture that there was once 13 rooms throughout the house. 

Joop doing what he does best at Hotel Amsterdam

We leave today on the train for Paris -Joop's actual birthday. I will miss Amsterdam especially because I just love to walk and see everything and everyone. Despite the crowds you almost never see any police - I think only once. There seem to be no poor people at all. Joop's nephews wife who produces a radio program like the Current for the public broadcasting radio network here - insisted last night that there are no poor people in Holland. I would love to believe it but with the elevated cost of everything - a euro buys what a dollar does - I can't almost believe that it is true. But it is nice to leave Holland with that image of just people loving life and socializing and having such a great standard of living.

First days in Holland

Me, Mila, Joop, Bas and Bella

Bas, Mila and Joop in Bas's kitchen

Ans and Frederique walking outside Bas andAns' house.

Ans and Fred

Joop

The first days in Holland have been hectic. It is exhausting to arrive 9 hours jetlagged and then have to gird your loins to prepare for a party. Luckily most, if not all of the details had been handled by Joop's nephew Bas and his wife Ans. We feel tremendous gratitude for all of the planning that they did and organization of all of the details that went into making the party such a huge success.

We arrived on Thursday morning and Joop's brother Arnold picked us up at the airport and whisked us to his home in a seaside village Driehuis, for a wonderful lunch made by his wife Marlene. Afterward we hunkered down in a hotel in Amsterdam in the centre of town for supposedly a restful sleep prior to the intense preparty planning. It was a most wonderful hotel but I could not sleep. In fact sleep eluded me until after the party 2 days later. I think I look very perky for a person who has not slept in 3 days in the post party picture. Somehow our hotel was located in an area under construction so we could not drive anywhere near it. Try to lug your huge wheeled suitcase down cobblestone alleyways while suffering profound body collapse. Not a delightful picture. I think I am indebted to Starbucks Vente awake teas for enabling me to make it to Lelystad the next day in reasonable form.  I took 3 teas in a 3 hour time frame.

Once we arrived in Lelystad we raced around buying flowers and drink ingredients. Rural Holland does not take credit cards. Just a tiny detail but quite profound in its implications. In fact I ended up actually despariging the North American dependence on credit cards for navigating. It simply did not occur to me that I might need actual money. After the fifth shop keeper explained to me that it was because the charges from the credit companies are too high (me in complete agreement but still non the less panicky at how could I now get money without severe penalties from my bank); I began to see the Dutch in a new light - a debtless society - subsequently debunked by one of Joop's nephews who then waxed on and on about the lines of credit that keep everything afloat. We bought beautiful flowers - such a great price. I compromised on some of my drink ingredients. We had supper at the neighbours - Joop's niece Ester. Party planning - which consisted of me arranging flowers and making a drink - began in earnest the next day. The party was a huge success. A large band consisting of many professional musicians sang a song about Joop's life. We had an amazing Jazz duo - the guitarist brought in by Joop's brother Arnold a professional bassist - then wild dancing. It was very entertaining. The guitarist when leaving went to say goodbye and then before he grabbed my shoulders said: "I need you to know that this means nothing, it is just Dutch" as he proceed to do the routine 3 time cheek kiss. You got to love that preemptive negation. The catered food was beyond wonderful. I still am shocked at how inexpensive it was compared to North American caterers. 

The next day we walked along the small canals to pay for the bed and breakfast hotel that some of Joop's sisters stayed at. Lelystad is freshly "reclaimed" land. This means that 50 years ago all of Lelystad was under the open sea. Significant dikes and pumping of water has revealed the marvel of flat landscape that is Lelystad. I am quite amazed by the linear copse of trees that permeate Holland - usually only 3 trees deep - all the same height. Everything is a manufactured landscape - how weird is that? One night from our tower bedroom - Bas had built this tower where we slept in the loft - all self contained - very amazing - (I always told everyone that I would just let my hair down and they could come in), I heard a dog barking incessantly - my first thought is what is there to bark at in this predator free constructed world? Foxes were the answer.

Miles and miles of windmills

The spectres and the changing sky

The day after the party we drove to Arnold's village for supper. The landscape can be quite disconcerting especially if it is shrouded in fog and the bodies of the windmills are hidden - all you see are these lonely blades of the windmills slicing through the opaque cloudy sky. It feels very Orwellian.

Once at Arnold's having navigated the rainy, dark highway with cars that kept flashing their lights at us, Joop became quite incapacitated with dizziness. We ended up having to stay at this historic hotel even though we had no luggage. It was quite a delightful old hotel near the open sea harbour that had survived WWII while the rest of the region was razed just because the German Army captains liked to stay there. We might have been the only guests. They had the remote control beds that we have at home but we failed to notice until the next morning. We felt quite cheated. The town is located on the dunes with the open sea raging beyond. Joop's childhood summers were spent biking from Amsterdam to the northern dunes to a cottage. I love the image of the family biking together all of those many miles to their summer stay.

The sand dunes and open sea outside Arnold's town  Driehuis

The Augusta hotel Ijmuinden

The bicycle capital of the universe -Amsterdam

We are now happily ensconced in the Amsterdam hotel in the centre of town. I am still in awe of the bikes. In fact at central station they are so deep as they are tied up that I don't know how you could possibly retrieve your bike. I loved all of the school children heading home on their bikes from school on the rural paths. 

Joop and I in our tower after 10 hours of Partying at the 70th - don't we look perky?

Snorkelling and Beaching

Dearest crab in the world

snorkelling chat

 More chats and instructions

 Post snorkelling ennui

Post for surveying all and sundry

Beaching is becoming tolerable

If only I could hear out this bloody ear

Attempting beach mindfulness

Going out to find the waterfall

Scrambling around creek beds

Beautiful forest trail

Very triumphant deep diver emerging from depths

Superlative snorkelling find after tenacious diving attempts

Heading out for dinner at Harmen and Donnas - Big Island Brewhaus must miss us

Just like it always happens - the holiday is drawing to a close and you just get in the rhythm of things. The snorkelling is getting better and better - aquarium like conditions - hardly any waves - plethora of turtles and fish. I'm starting to get on top of my asthma - diving deep is an immediate cure for shortness of breath - I think the pressure on the lungs helps force the air from the closed airways! We finally got the dehumidifier working - so now at least our dry clothes are not getting wetter as they hang there. We are on the cusp of maybe figuring out how to fill the japanese soaker tub. All in all we are settling into a happy routine. I'm just on the cusp of sending for the dogs as a tiny surprise for Joop and Kyr. Nobody would love lying on the lanai and perusing the ranch lands more than my Herm. Probably Rooster and Archie would still be indoor dogs.

That is one thing that this holiday has shown me - I can't live without animals. I have never been away from animals for so long - even in Greece every restaurant and hotel has resident cats and dogs. Right now the only animals I see are horses in the distance. I'm getting desperate. Yesterday when I was diving at Mauna Kea beach to find neat shells I noticed that repetitive diving in an area attracts these small fish. Because I am not a skilled diver it takes me many attempts to retrieve anything - just enough time to collect a whole school of these little fish around me - finally friends I thought! I wonder what they hope I'll find? Some great tidbit? The experience has served to show me that I chose my career well without even knowing it.

We traveled to the Hawaiian wildlife centre the other day near Hawi - a centre designed to preserve native Hawaiian birds and one bat. It is quite sad to reflect on how little  of the original plants, animals and insects survive. Such a short time and almost nothing left but invasive species. I guess it is really evident on such a small land mass. And then I feel guilty for loving the landscape of the ranchlands because it is definitely all foreign plants and animals. I so desperately worry about the ocean changing now that I have a window on it from snorkelling. It is all so fragile. Who knew that Hawaii didn't even have earthworms? Not necessary apparently. 

Had supper at Harmen and Donna's yesterday. Paradoxically Kyr was socializing with all of the UBC O students - comes to Hawaii just to get corrupted by the same students that he just left - forcing him to play beer pong of all things!