O'Keefe Country

Joop and I went to New Mexico and Joop bought a fender for his car and I bought a Navajo headdress. It sounds weird but that is what it amounts to.

The New Mexican landscape it exceptionally beautiful. In the northeast section where we were, the land is a series of open plateaus interspersed with occasional mountains and land formations that look more like badlands. There is the sense of open vistas like the prairie where the sky is all but at the same time in every view there is sometype of geographic relief that adds incredible interest. So it is always about the play of light on the land and the many subtle colours. The vegetation is quite consistent at the various altitudes mostly scrub junipers and pinyon bushes, not much grass which could explain how even though it seems as though you are driving through miles and miles of ranchlands, and it is all fenced with barb wire as though intending to keep something in or out , there is not a cow or horse visible. People dress the part though and stopping in a tavern in an old ghost town called Madrid (has subsequently been taken over by squatters who set up galleries) the clientele are weathered old ranchers with hats and boots and neckscarves as though they just dismounted.

Driving through the landscape there is vast emptiness with the occasional fenced pueblo, which I took to be sometimes like a town on a reservation because they are quite vigilant about their privacy and often don’t encourage visitors. The dwellings in these pueblos are definitely adobe or pseudo- adobe, all meant to look the same and as part of the earth. There are also many, many casinos. I have decided that the native population that is not making pottery, jewelry, weavings or drums is running the casinos.

The only other visible industry is galleries. There is such a plethora of galleries in Santa Fe that it is enough to paralyse you.

Of the three towns that we visited I would say that Santa Fe is the place to make your base. Aside from too many galleries, too many shops, it is a nice little town to walk around. Our bed and breakfast was within two blocks of the downtown core and plaza. We walked everywhere. It was very pleasant. The food we ate was very good. We ate at 2 especially nice restaurants – an Italian and a bistro. With the food so good and accessible it was almost easy to overlook the paralysis that overcomes you when faced with too many goods to buy. I was so inundated with jewelry, pottery, weavings that I was completely unable to purchase. That has never happened to me before. The handful of goods that I did admire were all over $1000.00. I tried and tried to find something to purchase from the natives that sell their wares directly by sitting in front of the governors place which is like a long porch that is along one side of the plaza, but even then things were too overwhelming. A belt buckle I liked was $500.

So in the end the only items I ended up purchasing were at the hotel shop in Albuquerque. I even had to exclaim to the shop attendant that I had looked everywhere and only liked the things in his shop.

We went to the Georgia O’Keefe gallery in Santa Fe and really enjoyed the movies and collection. To visit her house in the town of Abiquiu you must book one month in advance. I would have liked to have seen it, just to see what aspect of the landscape consumed her so.

Last night we had guacamole made at our table. It was very entertaining, cheap and tastey, someone should take it up at home.

The one thing I will miss is my New Mexican hair - sleek and flat with no humidity.

Bandelier and Frijoles Canyon

Here I am back in our cozy B &B in Santa Fe after a day spent at Bandelier Monument which is just northwest of Santa Fe, near the infamous Los Alamos. In Frijoles Canyon at Bandelier is the cliff dwellings of the Ancestoral Pueblo peoples. They lived in these cave-like dwellings carved out of the volcanic tuff for hundreds of years until about 600 years ago when they abandoned the dwellings for reasons not completely known, speculated that perhaps a number of environmental pressures pushed them out - drought, over hunting etc. As you can see from the above photos the dwellings sometimes pushed out from the cliffs and were multistoried, having the depressions within the cliffs as part of a dwelling projecting out. You can see from the one photo the many holes in lines that indicated the different stories of the dwellings. The projecting out parts were just stones mortared together. Occasionally there would be just ladders into caves. The roofs of the caves were blackend with soot to help prevent the fragile tuff from falling down ( tuff is a soft type of volcanic rock from and erruption 1 million years ago). The whole Frijole canyon is beautiful and peaceful. Near the end of the exploratory loop was a chance to ascend to a cave dwelling that house many people at one time. These photos are near the end. In them you can see the brave Joop ascending the multiple ladders that rise 140 feet to the cave where many families lived and cavorted, bringing all firewood and harvested and gathered food stuffs to the cave. You can see the overhang shadow of the cave in one of the bottom pictures, the other 2 are the tiny dot of Joop braving it out on the ladders. Needless to say I didn't do it as it specifically warned against people afraid of heights. I did try the earlier ladders - just one story and even then had severe vertigo. Imagine those people ( they only lived to 35) whipping up and down the ladders probably even to go to the bathroom. The ancestoral peoples were farmers and happily grew corn and were prolific potters. They even had domestic turkeys and pet dogs.

While we were in the beautiful valley we could always hear this gentle cooing. We were convinced that it was the ancestors of the domestic turkeys. But no, it was vast numbers of sandhill cranes to migrating to their wintering grounds just south of Albuquerque. It was so wonderful to see them overhead in their undulating flying V's.

After such an exceptional afternoon we headed to Taos, the infamous town of historic artists and literary figures. I was led by the guidebooks to believe that this town of 6000 was the mecca of New Mexico. Admittedly it was Sunday night, and perhaps the attractions are in the recreation - white water rafting in the gorge of the Rio Grande, skiing etc... I was hopeful that it was the New Mexican equivalent of Nelson. But all I can say is that we drove through the town completely unable to imagine why Julia Roberts makes her home there. My only highlight was being able to view the paintings of DH Lawrence at an old hotel ( we had to pay$3 each and wait until a viewing at 6pm , when finally the curtains were parted on the 9 paintings.) They were painted the year before he died and after he left his ranch in New Mexico. They were deemed too purient by Scotland Yard and ordered destroyed after their first exhibit in the UK. Somehow they found their way back to the illustrious Taos. They were interesting in their lack of purience. Given enough time, perhaps he would have become quite a painter.

Tomorrow I try and see the Native Art Museum to hopefully be able to consolidate all of my ideas on the influence of the different sectors on life in New Mexico today.

Albuquerque

Right now we're in Santa Fe, having spent the last 2 days in Albuquerque. As you can see from the 2 photos just above, Albuquerque is flat and not very lush. It spreads out very far, probably farther than you'd expect 800,000 people to spread but they almost all live in one story buildings. I think you can count the high buildings ( greater than 3 stories) on one hand. In the photo just above, I noticed these people painting in the lot below our hotel room. I couldn't imagine what it was they were painting and so the photo just above it to demonstrate the view that the painters had. It is a puzzling place simply because there doesn't seem to be much landscape wise to attract people. I didn't get a good look at the Rio Grande but perhaps the river valley is quite lovely. I watched a film in the art museum about the development of the city and for awhile (50's -60's)it was the fastest growing city in the states. They interviewed people that had moved here at that time and a number of the people remembered looking out their windows of their new bungalows in the new subdivisions, and just crying because there was nothing to see, just Mesa for miles and miles. I have to admit that somehow it seems even more stark than the prairie, there seems to be less plants. Its glory however is in the light. The most intense bright sun imaginable. Joop thinks that it is brighter than I remember Saskatchewan to be because of the nearness to the equator. It is almost blinding.

The history of the area is most interesting. In one of the photos you can see Joop helping to push the cart of the first colonizers in 1598. These were a number of Spanish families that moved up from the south. It appears to have been exceedingly difficult for them. The trade routes ran only south - north and the mother country (Spain) wasn't to gracious at getting them supplies that they could not source locally. This meant no iron for tools, which in turn meant no furniture (they were apparently lacking carpentry skills anyway). So it seems that they modeled some of their lifestyle on the local pueblo indians, who lived in caves and mud huts etc.. I am trying to understand how the plethora of artistic materials which seem to represent this area are so tied to the natives. Despite the Spanish colonists horrid treatment of them (enslavement, lack of any kind of trading fairness) all of the things for sale are somehow related to the initial natives - pottery, weaving, turquoise jewelry, etc...It is almost overwhelming shopping in these areas because there is so much of everything: pots, blankets, jewelry. I can't begin to imagine picking out a piece of jewelry to bring home, there is just too much.

Touring old town in Albuquerque, the initial settlement from the 1600's (see the photos above - Joop in old town plaza, Joop in a restaurant with the tree in it ( restaurant from 1700's) one was awash in Native art and nostalgia for the good old highway Route 66. Things only improved for these initial colonizers in a material sense only after the Santa Fe trail opened up in the 1800's which was a trading route that originated in Missouri.

The current residents of Albuquerque apparently pride themselves on being unpretentious. There seems to be a strong sense of us vs. them about the university students. When we asked our hotel bartender which of two areas were worth seeing - downtown or Nob Hill, he quickly replied Nob Hill because downtown on a Thursday night would be too full of university types. Interestingly both areas are located on the old Route 66 - just a long line of commercial establishments snaking through the city.

We took the scenic route to Santa Fe. Just undulating hills covered in scrub trees that seem to be Junipers. Still a sense of vegetation having a real struggle to establish itself. Most probably due to the dryness.

Santa Fe seems like a delightful place. It has a population close to 80,000, sort of like Kamloops and so far the shops around the plaza amaze even me. I have seen merchandise in the windows (it was evening when we arrived) that I couldn't even imagine- a liqueur set in this amazing beveled glass display case that folds open, beautiful embroidered skirts, too much to even take in.

We are staying in a lovely bed and breakfast just 2 blocks from the plaza. So far we have to work hard to avoid the mexican food. It is good - and just like Yanni warned us - we have to ask which of the chili sauces always on offer,either red or green, is the hot one that day. We are only working to avoid it so that we don't have to eat it 3 times a day.

Today I turn 46. I hope that Santa Fe will provide me with birthday entertainment.

Leaving

Managed to get all suitcases in. Spent the morning moving things from bag to bag trying to stay within the 50lb limit. Can you believe the shower curtain fabric weighs 7 lbs! Kyr thinks we were triumphant due to his genetics on the Cunningham side, some ancestors responsible for loading the Cutty Shark. I think I played a role as well.

Yesterday at Hapuna. Mostly boogie boarding for the masses. I snorkeled. I must enter into a trance like state because I seem to have no knowledge that I've been in too long. My movements just seem a bit slower, and when I finally emerge from the water I am so weak and low blood sugar that I can hardly move, but this sensation is not that apparent in the water. Weird.

We all ate at the mexican restaurant - tiny little place that it is. Serenaded with an electric ukulele. (Kyr wanted one of those, I said no). Turns out that Elton John has patronized our little Tako Taco. Oh if only we were there at the same time.

Antiquing

We started the day at Waimea farmers market where I was pleased as punch to find the Hawaiian Red sea salt for sale. I was so pleased that I ended up in an unwitting confrontation with the purveyor of said salt. "Oh wow, Where does this come from?" "I made it." "You made it?" (innocently asked as I have no idea how or where to get salt.) "Of course I make it lady. What do you think, this is a farmers market. Do you think people buy things to bring here to sell?""Well of course not," tripping over myself to clarify,"I just wonder how to you make it."That was another admission of wing-dinger ignorance. "Well I get it from the sea. What did you think lady?" I just hurriedly purchased and got out of there before things could really deteriorate. The only thing I learned was that they dry the water in little coves and then grind up the red lava soil and add it. Apparently only too full of nutrients. Lets just say you don't want to get the guy started again.

We then toured an antique store trying to find Paul the perfect gift. The kitchy bare breasted Hula lamp from the 50's was a little out of my price range at $1200. The thing didn't even hula. But we all managed to find wonderful things. Joop a antique delft tile, Mist a doll chair for the great stuffy wedding, Kyr and amazing pair of cowboy boots, me some antique photo prints and a large globe shaped piece of corral.

Feeling quite marvelous we headed to a beach south of Kona to meet up with the Arthur clan. The guide book said it was the most easily accessible best snorkeling on the island. It looked okay. Not as full of snorkelers as one would expect. I have decided to be wary of those areas that have a long reef (either natural or man made, who knows) that runs parallel to the shore and perpendicular to the waves. Despite their calm looks, and false sense that the reef is buffeting the force of the waves between the shore and the reef, they are actually little churning caldrons of currents. Dreadful. Scary and too much work. I prefer to suss out the situation of a somewhat open ocean because it seems like a much more straight forward equation - big waves equal potentially big currents.

Little Pip has become quite a hula girl. Somewhat demo'd in the photos above. After our sojourn at the beach we had a quick trip to Walmart to pick up yet another suitcase. (How on earth will we make it to the airport? - We might have to try to tempt Peter into assistance.)

Then a frantic race to A beach to finish the stuffy wedding photos with the setting sun (6:30pm precisely). We had to share the beach with an actual human wedding and so when a couple wandered up and saw us wildly setting up the photos - Fuzzy's veil cascading ever so beautifully behind her, they remarked how funny we were. I informed them very seriously that they were in the midst of some very big internet stars. They were quite rightly taken aback.

Then back to Morning Fire to quickly fabricate a meal of all our remaining food. I enjoy the challenge of cooking with limited resources under pressure: stir fried steak with green onions and bok choy, spinach ravioli with asparagus alfredo sauce, italian egg noodles with mushroom marinara sauce, salad with papaya and home grown avacados, and garlic bread. Yum.

69 beach

Frolicking at 69 beach yesterday with the Arthur clan. I can't believe Mist, Tabs and Pete. Even though my pictures don't reflect it, they did not leave the water all day. They were all mesmerized by the force of the waves at the shoreline. Even Tabs. Her confidence has skyrocketted and she bobs around sans lifejacket. Melissa probably would have been in as long as the rest of them but she took breaks to see little Pip who could dig her way to China on the beach sand. Kyr played for awhile but then dug himself a pit to read in - until a wave came in and saturated his chamber, luckily he was boogy boarding at that moment. Pete must have boogie board abs. I've never seen anyone go at it so relentlessly, flinging himself on the board.

Joop was having to babysit me. I need assistance to get past the shore line waves. Especially this time. I have zero ability to navigate when the wave is pulling back from the shore in its retreat. I actually felt my tibias disengage from my knees and head out with the wave - minus the top part of me. You can see a picture of Joop holding tightly to the top part of me while the bottom part leaves for deep water.

I had remembered this beach as the one where a small boy found a gigantic conch shell last year - almost a foot long. I am getting desperate in the acquisition front. Just nothing to show for all the beaching. Even diligently searching these shores yielded nothing but two small shells. Where have all of the shells gone?

Afterwards we went to Harmon and Donna's for supper. It is so amazing to be sitting on their lanai and hearing the whales, even their cries. Imagine living somewhere where you sit looking into the blackness of the sea and hear the whales talking.

Place of Refuge

Yesterday we went to the Place of Refuge. The one place on the island where if you managed to make it there you were absolved of any crimes (including stepping on the king's shadow) and could escape certain death. Before hand we were caught in quite a downpour and decided to accept being wet and just snorkel. We entered in where the waves were surging on the lava outcroppings. It feels and looks dangerous but it isn't too bad having done it on many occasions. Many school children were bobbing up and down in the water just a the point of entry and made it difficult to get in and avoid them with all of the wave action. The kids were swimming back and forth to a large hawaiian canoe where they were taking turns getting instructions on how to operate these large canoes. A guy leaving just as we went in said he saw a reef shark. Joop says it was probably a large Jack fish. The snorkeling was lovely. Just a moon scape of coral with some interesting angle fish with long pointy noses.

Wandering around the place of refuge wasn't too serene with the wild teenage shinanigans of Mist and Kyr as they chased each other wildly around. I like the picture of them that looks like American Gothic.

Afterwards we raced to Waikaloa to attempt the sunset beach photos of the stuffy wedding. The crew looked dapper in all their beautiful handmade wedding attire, including Yatta with the fuchsia bougainvillea stuffed in her slit. But unfortunately the sun had set and the beach was windswept. Melissa and I were all for continuing the photo shoot but the bossy teenagers made it impossible. We'll try again today.

We were tired and it was late so we decided to eat Mexican just 2.5miles from Morning Fire. It was just like stepping into a taverna in Greece. It was open mike night so that the place was filled with locals delighting us with their musical talents. I got quite a kick of a brother duo Jeese and Jake. Jesse had the blond surfer dude hair with a fake Ausie accent and advanced to the mike saying that his brother was visiting from Wyoming and they thought they would get together and show us what they are about. It just kills me that saying. People are always promoting themselves in Nelson the same way. What does that mean - "show you what we're about"?Such presumption that the audience is just waiting with baited breath and filled with curiosity. Anyway they were quite enjoyable. Good old Jesse travels the island attending these open mike sessions. And he sheepishly said quite often it doesn't work out, he forgets the song. With his brother Jake looking on indulgently, Jesse managed to finish the songs. Jake appeared to have real talent on the saxaphone and some homemade pole he used for percussion with beer bottle caps. I was left with the sense that Jesse is quite a troubled handful and that his brothers great love and support helps keep him going. All in all it was entertaining. And then we arrived home to our own open mike session with Kyr serenading Misty with the ukulele and his version (based on the famous Hawaiian Isreal's version) of Somewhere over the Rainbow. Which he has managed to perfect in less than a day.