Adieu Big Island

You can see the snorkeling merman emerging from the depths, and Harris trying desperately to burn on his last day(not!), Kyr is still out in the depths, I tried to get a photo of his feet in the air as he dives but I was unsuccessful - he is a consumate diver. If I wasn't taking the picture I would have been in the great depths myself communing with another turtle friend. I think my screams endear me to them. Yesterday, my scream (all of the sudden they appear - a large marine creature - you are suddenly upon each other) must have made my turtle friend so curious - she came and floated 2 inches in front of my face and stared at me. I was frantic to not touch her, but it wasn't really up to me - I just floated and didn't move and she dictated the circumstance. We floated together for 1/2 hour - I just duplicated her arm movements and kept a 3 foot distance between us. Today it happened again, and I know that she was curious and wanted to swim with me because we suddenly came upon Joop and next thing you knew she was gone. And then I had my most significant dive find ever - a gigantic purple sea urchin shell - so deep it took me 10 dives to even get close to it. Normally I wait for those with flippers to avail me, but they weren't coming. Each time the rise to the surface was so desperate - the ocean seems to stretch ahead of you with bubbles and no chance to reach precious oxygen. One of the times I was so desperate that in attempts to clear my snorkel when I finally broke the surface, I blew it completely off my face. But I was successful! My greatest and deepest find ever! The most tragic thing was that it crumpled while cossetted in my snorkel mask holder when it only dropped one foot.

The picture of the boys cleaning up after another gourmet meal last night, and Joop relaxing in the living area.

The blond pony just loves Kyr - she came galloping up when he was attempting to demonstrate his gymnastic prowess.

Today we scoured the antique shop. So many great finds for me and Harris - Kyr got a button.

We're rounding off the evening with a supper at the Mexican restaurant. This evening has been consumed with packing all of our paraphenalia. Harris's rock collection threatens to push him over and he is anguishing already about being overweight because we have no working scales in the house. I have told him if it is overweight I will hoist it violently back to him and make sure he takes the excess as carry on.

We leave tomorrow at 12:45. I've been sussing out the yard here at Morning Fire for my dogs - at least 1 -2 acres fully fenced. They would be in paradise.

The Most Active Volcano in the World

Yesterday we drove down the wet side of the island through Hilo and skirted across the southern part to see the active volcano - Kilauea - which is heralded to be the most active volcano in the world. It was spewing forth molten lava from a fissure on the eastern side of Volcano park earlier this month. Now there is no active lava but the fires are still glowing where it continues to consume the neighboring forests. The top pictures are us standing in front of the largest Caldera of Kilauea - you can see the steam billowing forth from one of the craters in the Caldera. The southern rim is closed because the levels of sulphur dioxide are too toxic to breathe in. Apparently the spewing forth of SO2 and methane is unpredictable. Isn't that marvelous? Sometimes even boulders the size of cars rush out. All in all a comforting place to be. We toured a large lava tube, just a very large cylindrical cave,and had the pleasure of water dripping on our heads and roots billowing above us as they search for moisture in the tube. I saw a fascinating diagram showing the southern migration of the Pacific plate and how with its gradual movement all the volcanos except Kilauea and the underwater one - Lo ihi, are now cut off from the big magma pool. There is still some question about the biggest volcano which is right beside Kilauea - Mauna Loa. Lets just hope no connection.

After breathing in those lovely fumes and tiny particulate lava, glass shards we moved off to explore the most south eastern tip of the island. We tried to get into a natural volcanic hot pool right beside some incredible surfing territory ( all the good surfers were women) but it was too full of locals so off we went to the tide pools. They were fun. I watched a fish harass an eel in a game that seemed to go on forever, and gazed at the amazing lilac coloured corral, all whilst wearing a quickly modified bathing suit top that was tied with the woven paper handle of a starbucks bag ( all I had at my immediate disposal).

We skirted the coast line to the farthest south tip on the east side and to the site of a historic town that was wiped out in the lava flows of 1990. Joop and the boys are in the pictures of the lava expanse that destroyed the 1000 year old fishing village where it butts up against the ocean-Kalapana. A few determined stragglers remain, giving the place a feeling of the end of the world.

There was an interesting cafe where we stopped just as the road ends and the boys indulged themselves in a gigantic banana split. Joop befriended a harp player that looked Rastafarian to me, and we were cloaked in marijuana smoke from neighboring tables. The local dogs looked like a mangey cross between Mexican and Greek dogs - ie) not well cared for, laden with critters in their fur and all delightfully intact. Joop thought it the prime place to set up a spay and neuter clinic but I countered that it has nothing to do with cost, everything to do with principle. This is the place where the egg cartons say a fertilized egg is a happy chicken. At first I didn't get it and thought are fertilized eggs more nutritious? Then it hit me. The same ideas apply to their dogs. They don't look that much happier to me. In fact there was one small coyote bitch whose mammary tissue was so blackened and saggy that all nipples were practically dragging on the ground. I've never seen the likes of it. She didn't seem to be actively nursing as everything was so deflated and I had the most horrific thought that they will probably never bounce back. - The poor thing!

Off to the beach again. I don't think we'll fit in too much else in our last two days, as it is the thing we most jealously guard and love.

Bubbles

Kyr still hasn't lost his passion for bubble baths in the jacuzzi tub. The other photos detail the fun and excitement that occurs at our little spot at 69. The snorkeling was aquarium like despite the fierce winds pelting you with sand occasionally. So there really doesn't seem to be a way to predict the calmness and clarity of the sea. It seems not tied to local weather at all. That means you set off each day in nervous anticipation - not knowing how you will be received . It is a tense way to live when you have no backup plan - the despair you feel over not being able to fulfill your agenda seems disproportionate even to me. Going home we are almost always treated to a rainbow over Waimea. If you notice the landscape in these photos you'll notice it is incredibly desolate. I think it receives 10 inches a year of precipitation. A complete desert, which butts up against the rainforest that is Waimea, the leeward side of an old 60,000 years since its last erruption, volcano. On the windward side of the same volcano is the most beautiful lush ranchlands you'll ever see. The beaches we go to are just at the foot of this desolate volcano, so you can see hardly ever have anything but sun all year, no matter what the rest of the island is doing.

We partook of open mike session at our beloved Mexican restaurant last night, a little fun and excitement. Almost all performers were regulars we recognized from last year. Not much changes. The place was almost standing room only and gave us a vicarious feeling of being part of the action.

Today were spicing it up a bit with a trip to the volcano. The variety has me a tiny bit tense. Where will I get my sun? We're driving down the wet side of the island through Hilo because it is closer. Last night I found out I had seat heat in the car - a perfect foil for that dreadful airconditioning.

Gilligan's Island

Even though Harris claims to never have seen Gilligan's island, he is living it and loving it.

Today 69 beach let me down. We arrived and it was somewhat overcast. Somewhat in the sense that the sun was behind what looked to be a temporary cloud ( the rest of the sky was clear, clear!) Somehow that temporary cloud lasted interminably. Long enough for Joop to gallantly drive back the 30 km to Morning Fire and retrieve the forgotten lunch cooler ( it was a particularly good one with leftover ribs and sandwiches). I was so chilled that I huddled under a towel reluctant to go in. Perhaps I was fighting something -( I woke up this am with a sore throat and swollen lymph glands, I was very reluctant to read infection because how could anyone get ill immersed in so much Vit D?) After a desultory attempt to snorkel, I'd had enough and encouraged moving on; I thought the sun shone brightly over Hapuna. Just in case we advanced past Hapuna to Mauna Kea. Hold tight to your seats my faithful readers! - We actually got in! I hesitate to say that it was already 3pm and all the die hards had retreated due to lack of sun, but now I remember why I like it - completely uncrowded! We frolicked, the sun shone, all and all I began to feel warm and healthy again. And the best part is the boys salvaged many coconuts and turned into primitive beasts slamming them from their outer shells. I really think they are cro-magnon men. So tonight we are going to experience chicken, fresh coconut curry. They are chefing it up!

I am quite excited by the results. I'll let you know. Maybe I could term this the "Gourmet how to cook Hawaiian "expedition for grade 12 boys. When we drive along the highway - Mamalahoa- I think we sometimes come across a guy with a stuffed wild boar that he has in many compromising positions with a tripod fixed on him. I think it is some vain attempt to advertise Big Island culinary endeavors. I think my course might beat him.

One of the best things I have discovered is Kukui oil. Some lovely person waxed on about its virtues our first day here - he claimed it was wonderful for combatting sunburn and his wife makes him take home $100 worth per vacation. Now I know why - incredible wrinkle remover. When I got here I had several deep wrinkles on my sternum ( probably too low cut tops coupled with no sunscreen), and guess what - they are gone! So now I will be diligent with Hungarian serum on the face and kukui oil on the body. Let me know if anyone wants a bottle.

Going to the Beach

I think we've discovered our perfect beach. Simply by default, never being allowed into Mauna Kea, we were reduced to 69 beach but have learned that it is the best. The torrential trade winds are ravaging Waimea where we live. It sometimes is dangerous to get out of the car because the car doors become lethal weapons in the wind's grasp. The ocean is also behaving wildly - white caps everywhere and at Hapuna - very large boogie waves. But for some reason little 69 bay is almost perfectly calm. Once in awhile a large swell, but mostly just gentle and there are wonderful coral areas that don't get too stirred up with flailing sand so visibility is actually quite good. I think we spent 6 hours yesterday just snorkeling then resting in the shade of the big trees. We met our little turtle friend taking a breather on the sand. When her eyes are closed you swear she is dead. I got a kick out of her beach path - the flipper marks on each side of the deep tail trench.

I had to replace Kyr's snorkel mask, I think it was irreparably damaged in the ferry tsunami we endured that time we all were at Pender 4 years ago. Kyr has heroically endured a leaky mask ever since - even in Greece. It was to the point that he was emptying it every minute. We collectively decided that it was somewhat of a safety feature as it forced him to see where he was at all times. With a good mask it is almost too easy to find yourself way out, with huge distances ahead trying to get back. Harris bought himself some flippers and is enjoying the speed they enable him while snorkeling and diving. Apparently diving is way easier with flippers, something I'll probably never know.

I became engrossed yesterday in a crab collective. At least 10 crabs were whipping in and out of their holes all within 2 feet of where I stood. By standing very still I witnessed their comings and goings and interactions with eachother. Mostly they liked to stand poised at their hole openings and train their eyes on me. I felt like a conductor. The brief movement of even my hair would send them scuttling down only to reappear moments later when they would arrange themselves facing me. I wonder what they eat?

I've quit suggesting other outings ie) volcano because I'm going to wait and see if the others ever tire of beaching it. I don't tire but I feel the normal anxiety that plagues me that we should be doing other things.

We're eating very gourmet. Last night while making supper a gecko sprinted across the kitchen floor and unnerved me - that flash of fluorescent green!

I've even quit harassing everyone for an early start - now that we've found 69 beach there is no big hurry. As you can see from the last three photos how we start our day - me making breakfast sandwiches and delivering them to the computer people and then the slow realization as I make lunch that perhaps we will have someother demand on us during the day, we might actually have to go somewhere, even though the winds rage around dear little Morning Fire.

Calm Beaches

A very busy few days. Trying to be diligent and perhaps with any luck penetrate the beach fortress that is Mauna Kea, we set out earlier and earlier each day. But there are some things that I will not forsake in the quest to get to that particular beach - and that is a good lunch (dutifully made by yours truly) and Starbucks vente black ice tea. If I had to forsake that, it is not worth going. Every morning we are dutifully turned away at Mauna Kea. To the point when we ask how early we must be there the entry time keeps getting earlier by a 1/2 hour.

But as luck will have it each morning we have ended up at 69 beach. Winds are raging around us and for some reason 69 is perfectly calm and with shade. It doesn't get any better. For 2 years we have dutifully gone to 69 always with huge waves. I read about the snorkeling but could never get there because of the currents associated with the waves. The last two mornings have been calm and perfect snorkeling weather. We all enjoyed squid, turtles and Kyr even saw an octupus! It had been such a delightful beach. We have been so lucky!

After several hours spent in snorkeling spendor we try to do an afternoon outing . Yesterday we did the saddle road between 2 volcanos and in the span of less than an hour dropped from 87 to 50 degrees. The landscape on the saddle road ( crosses the island) is like a moonscape. It is surreal in its elevation and bleakness. The American military have a base near the top and it is beyond desolate. Apparently it was incredibly strategic during WWII, but god knows what important nefarious activity occurs now. The thing that was so incredibly disturbing was the complete death of all vegetation surrounding the military base. Admittedly it is just very dwarf scrub trees, but they are numerous and definitively dead. The only hopeful thing I could come up with is perhaps a brush fire?

We arrived in Hilo to find it even more decrepit than before. Will the economic crush never end? The market was even very paltry. Joop bought two beautiful island bouquets that are elevating our surroundings here at Morning Fire and we bought lots of papaya and tomatoes. But really it was almost depressing. We made the big faux pas of trying to get a snack at a restaurant. It was an exercise in futility.

Today after our beach sojourn we hiked Pololu valley. So beautiful as you can see in the windswept beach photos.

Tonight the boys made a tropical meal with local papayas, pineapples and chicken. It was delish.

The opening photos are of the horses here at morning fire. They love their morning apples and gallop up.

Boogie Boarding

I'm having to blog at night now because my blogging slowed down our progress to such a significant degree that we missed getting into Mauna Kea by one car. I thought we were doing exceptionally well being at the gates by 10:11, but apparently that is too late. I was initially distraught because being at Hapuna again means that I have to make my way past all of the boogie boarders in order to get to snorkeling territory. Not being a boogie boarder myself, they seem a wild, unwieldy lot that would as soon mow you down as abandon their wave. Needless to say I am traveling with boogie boarders. In the pictures you can see them strutting out to the waves clutching their boards and in some pictures even see Kyr and Harris catching some. It is quite the art.

I managed to snorkel a bit, not much because it is so choppy and even once you get to the corral there is not many fish. Is that significant? I don't know what to think on that point because I'm here so seldom and can't really say much about the amount of fish. I'm sure it is variable even in good years.

Once again we are struggling against the ravages of the sun. Today though, the ravages were in the attempts to foil it. Harris accidently burnt his left arm yesterday. After much nagging by me because I promised his mother he would not be burnt, he was vigilant in reapplying his sunscreen, but somehow it got in his eyes. He was in such agony for hours that I was contemplating attending emergency, but then through a miraculous self medication of sucking up Starbucks icewater through a straw and then dribbling it on his eye, he was cured, thank god. And then Kyr somehow spasmed his shin muscle into an S shaped that was unrelenting for 2 days despite my prescription muscle relaxants. So with the boys and their ailments, I am exhausted. I am thankful that neither condition precluded them enjoying the boogie boarding.

Tomorrow we will attempt to get to Mauna Kea by 9 am and then take the newly paved saddle road to Hilo where we will partake of the market. The boys are supposed to make supper every 3rd night. Somehow the plethora of Costco ingredients was uninspiring. They aim to make the market their destination - fruits and veggies galore. I'm pleased as long as Harris doesn't sneak Spam into the mix.

We'll probably take the coastal route back because it is so beautiful. For some reason the only people we run into are from BC. We are assured the volcano is open for observation by the native BCers. I'm pleased because that would be quite spectacular even to see the video footage of the latest explosion. The good thing about the Hawaii volcanos is that they erupt so slowly - 10mph, that they are easily outrunable.

Joop cooked supper tonight - a very delectable blue marlin - the very fish of trophy and fantasy.

There is so much to see and see again that I already feel panicky that we might miss something. I was wrong in my last post - the temp actually goes down to 64 F. Sandra and John would feel right at home at Morning Fire.