The Narrow Streets of Paris

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Another Narrow Parisian Street 

Where the Seine diverges

Walking on the Lower cobblestone  walkway of the Seine

Yesterday we walked to the Champs Elysees. All through this trip the song from Grade nine was ringing through my head "Au Champs Elysees.... Au soleil , Sous la pluie...A midi ou a minuit..."
I even won the french prize for the whole school that year. My present was a book of Paris  and my teacher (Caroline help me here)  - whom I adored - told me that I would spend much lovely time in Paris. It has only taken almost 35 years. I feel like I let him down. I didn't turn into the Francophile globe trotter that he thought I would. Oh well I have enjoyed it. Walking around in the sunlight in a less dense tourist time, has been lovely. I realize that I have liked it in not the way I was lead to believe I would. I thought through different messages that I would find that Paris was the consummate taste connoisseur - that anything to do with wine, food, fashion, design - was just better in Paris. The food is definitely tastey and well thought out but not really to my taste - I like a lot more vegetables and fruit, the fashion is nice. Fabrics and tailoring details that I have not seen elsewhere - makes me think of homemade - attainable by those with the desire and effort at home; and you have to love the way the french are put out - meaning seeing them on the street. I have especially loved the older ladies with their coloured tights and nice fitting jackets. I love the men with their shoes, hats and scarves . On the whole I love the effort that goes into going out. But I think that has more to do with the sport of walking the streets. People are out to see and be seen - so in fact walking about Paris is like going to a club at home - for sure people dress for the occasion. I had a tiny moment of actually feeling insecure by their snobbery today. I have had such a hard time getting gifts while I am here. Things don't look that novel and they are extraordinarily expensive. I had searched far and wide for a leather bag for Joop. Holland was a write off even though my favourite bag is from Holland, because the bags there simply didn't have enough pockets. I finally got some time alone today to be able to buy Joop a bag that I had my eye on - but since bags are in shoe stores it meant that I had to go into the shoe stores in my 5 toe wonders - the collective horror with which I was greeted and the complete reluctance to help me when I pointed to a bag - meant that I had to leave 2 shoe stores. These are hard economic times still in Europe and often I was the only customer with at least 4 employees, but still a complete ostratization of me while they stared at my feet, and this is when I felt that I looked stylish enough above the knees. I ended up buying myself a coat. I decided that the only things worth buying here are those made in France by local designers. The coat I fell in love with is very unique. I went  by the shop several times trying to justify it. When I went in the first time, the proprietoress ignored me and this time said "I recognize you by your feet". She had noted the footwear before and decided to ignore me. It was almost enough to make me walk out. In fact the only things that I have been compelled to buy are for Hippoworth and Joop is horrified. He claims that Horace will drown in al the presents that I buy. 

The Eiffel Tower

Statue at the beginning of the Champs Elysees

Having finally made it to L'Arc de Triomphe

La Conciergerie on the First Island in the setting sun

Our handy Starbucks location

Girl walking dog

One of the things that I have noticed is that there are a fair number of dogs about ( a disproportionate amount of dog poo) but many of them are being dragged about like this dog in the picture. It is not like they are heeling nicely - they are way behind. That would be the day my dogs didn't charge ahead. In fact I don't think they could cope with Paris - they would be lunging forth and causing me much grief because charging ahead is not a Parisian dog thing. 

The other thing that I have noted is the huge number of homeless, begging women and even women and children. Coming home from the Musee d'Orsay tonight we passed three groups of young mothers with children  all bundled up in fleece blankets, leaning against the building - some kids eating apples. They all seemed very jolly  for a heading into a chilly night without food and shelter. I thought that France had a good welfare support network. I wonder if these people are immigrants that have slipped through the cracks.

Lady in Apartment across from our Hotel

I have watched this lady  in the apartment across the street every day that we have been here. Most days she appears at the window near 10am. She watches the action on the street for about 20mins and then she takes her walker an very slowly moves out of sight. Most days she is in a white nightie; today she was wearing a burgundy outfit so perhaps she was going out. I wonder about her life because there are never any lights on in the evening. She moves very slowly. I hope that she has someone to help her.

Joop at Musse d'Orsay

I got to see my most favourite artist today. Normally I have only seen his pictures in books and calendars, today many large canavases - Eduard Vuillard. My love for him has only deepened - seeing all of his canvases. I remember going to the Saskatoon library over 20 years ago and taking out the one book on him repeatedly.

Last night we ended up at a small restaurant where we were squished between two tables -the one on our left turned out to be 2 Parisians that have frequented the restaurant for over 45 years  - going from Proprietor's father to son. They engaged us despite my non existent french and an american couple on our right tried to translate for us. The americans were one of those wine and food couples. He edits a magazine based out of New York on organic wine and they were here for some tastings. I tried valiantly to promote the organic Okanagan wine. When I asked them what was the number one thing to do in Paris as we had only one day left - they said quite stunned - well eat and drink, oh yah, try to see some museums. 

So that has been ultimately what we did - I would say walk, walk, walk, then eat and drink and then Museums. I will miss it. We leave very early tomorrow for almost a 24 hour journey home.

The favourite bike of Parisians

Another Sunny Day in Paris

Candy vendor on Rue St. Germaine 

Back of Notre Dame

Leaving the little Island on the Seine

I think that the Parisians have 3 sports. The first is walking the streets, the second is window shopping - just gazing in all the store windows, and according to a very voluble couple that sat with us outside a cafe - demonstrating. We think it was a mother and son ( he was in his 20's works in banking trying to find money laundering in stocks - he found Wolf of Wallstreet funny) - he claimed his mother will demonstrate even if she doesn't agree with the cause. She engaged us and would only speak french and despite knowing that I did not know the language, would look imploringly at me and say another emphatic statement and wait for my response. That day she was protesting against paying for surrogate mothers. She has been to Vancouver and hates Canadian food. She was very impressed with Joop - loved his french - didn't get that he was not absorbing all that she said - gave him a slim novel that is supposed to be like the Little Prince. They were quite emphatic that we see Victor Hugo's home. We tried to. But the lineup was too long. I've decided that all Parisians read very slim novels - just pull up to a cafe, bring out the smokes, order the small cafe and start to read the very slim book. I don't even think we sell such slim books. Hardly anyone reads a kindle. The demonstrations meant that all the police were on red alert - nothing but police vans lined up along the Seine - just all full of police. I was worried that perhaps they were all reacting to a potential bomb threat. 

We decided to find this repurposed railway line that is in the Marais district across the Seine. Some delightful young Mechanical engineer Phd's told us at Starbucks that we must do the walk because the vistas are so lovely. After 2 hours of walking to get there - traversing both islands on the Seine - the vistas were not too impressive. I think they must have found the structures of the rooflines so great. We didn't do the full 4.5 kms because we were quite tuckered - so to give them their due - perhaps the vistas were at the end. 

Cherry blossoms Feb 2 Paris

On the green elevated walkway that used to be train tracks

The crowds of people that just walk the streets

We then tried to see Victor Hugo's home at the Place  des Vosges - walked forever around just to find it at the last corner of the square with a huge lineup. We ducked out and went to quite a lovely museum Musee Carnavalet. You just have to love those court yards. I was especially impressed by a gargantuan painting done in the 17th century when those Dutch did not have a sniff of the existence of women - the French painting was not so dark and had plenty of lovely women. At least the french were aware of women back then. When we left the museum just about to cross the Place des Vosges square I noticed 4 people that I thought looked exceptionally stylish. I was amazed to hear them speak english - they appeared to be Brits. We were so fatigued from walking for 4 hours that we decided to nip into a Chilean bar for a quick drink. Just before finishing our drinks the very stylish foursome that I had noticed before came and sat down across from us. As we tried to leave they called over and insisted that we join them because we looked so interesting to them and so healthy?? Then ensued a most chaotic and wild night. Two of them were brothers from London and their wives. They were amazingly delightful people - so fun. The one brother Jimmy is a famous DJ and tv editor as well as singer/songwriter whose songs still get airplay and hence royalties. He was most emphatic that we must get ourselves to Berlin. It is to him the most amazing city ever. I chimed in that my sister Miranda claims the same thing. So now Joop and I will touch down in London and stay with them  at their house that has an outdoor bar(?) while heading to Berlin "before it is too late".

Inner courtyard of Museum Carnavalet

Hordes of people on the streets 200 years ago

Joop in the tiniest elevator in the world.

Staircase in our hotel

One of the things that has amazed me is how the 5 toe Vibram has not touched down in Europe yet. You can imagine the number of people on the streets that stop and stare at my feet - even going so far as to take pictures. I am wearing my most discrete ones I think - the brown kangaroo leather - but even those are causing a sensation. I saw one guy on the upper railway tracks with a pair. He looked like a young Turkish guy - you should have seen the excitement on his face when I walked by and he saw my 5 toe wonders. He grabbed his friends and talked and pointed excitedly. I was too shy to stop and talk to my infinite regret. The sadness I felt about not stopping and talking to him when he was smiling at me so broadly - didn't leave for several hours. I berated myself for my shyness. There are way less significant things to bond over. I could have waxed on and on about how my 5 toes have made Paris for me - walking sometime 6 hours per day with not one ailment - doesn't get better. And even our hotel - as you can see - the elevator can barely fit even one person - it is a real close call if the doors will shut with Joop, me and my metro standing in the elevator. It means that we must traverse the 4 flights of stairs by foot. I know that I would be incapable without my 5 toes with the stair runner slippage and the tiny purchase for feet on the treads that turn - a death defying decent every time.

Paris first few days

Cheshire cat on train from Amsterdam to Paris 

View from our Hotel Atlantis looking up the St. Sulpice towards the Seine.

The window in our hotel room

An incredibly tattered luxury bathrobe hanging for guest's use.

Heading out to Joop's birthday dinner

We arrived in good form after the rapid train ride. Travelling at 300km/hr made the cars on the highway look like they were standing still. We travelled in 1st class and were given much food and drink on the short 3 hour journey. I was busy sewing and repairing the metro which made Joop feel that I would miss out on the changing landscape. I really didn't notice major scenery differences. I thought the views of Brussels made the city seem way more depressed economically than the Dutch towns. 

I was amazed by the uniformness of Paris - it is mesmerizing to be in a place where the buildings are all the same soft limestone colour with the elaborate black iron balconies. It is very pretty but so much the same. I don't remember anyone mentioning that to me before. The other thing that immediately stood out is the funeral nature of everyone walking around - all of the black. I ended up feeling quite sanctimonious about our coloured clothing. We are attempting to get the feel of the city by just meandering about - no real destinations for awhile. 

The neighbourhood where we are staying is very posh - nothing but designer boutiques. I have yet to feel a strong urge to buy anything - the prices are so dear.  I must admit though that the clothes and shoes are beautiful. 

The streets are way less crowded than Amsterdam - probably because the city is so much bigger.

The beautiful Art deco dining room of Bouillon Racine

This is the restaurant where we had Joop's birthday dinner. The food was supremely tastey. Despite the talk of the abrupt rude french almost all of the serving staff  we have encountered have been most gracious and friendly. I don't even feel that badly about my non existent french. After a few days here however I must say that a person suffering from Wheat allergy, fish sensitivity and a love of vegetables has a hard time procuring food. Paris of all places. I am finding it quite hard to eat. They are not big on meal sized salads or vegetables that don't include fish. Supper is almost always pork, lamb or duck - no chicken to be found for love or money and don't try to order vegetables - some places actually turn you away - "no vegetables here". Maybe I'll fade away. Probably not too much damage can occur in one week and I have a good supply of spanish clementines.

Joop has found the morning croissant and coffee too dear at 6 -7 euros for a tablespoon of coffee with the croissant. Needless to say we park ourselves at Starbucks in the morning to be able to stave off our gargantuan North american appetite for tea and coffee - thank god for venti. 

Standing in front of Notre Dame

Statue outside Notre Dame - I love the horse

Joop in front of the Seine with its too rapid current

Joop's natural beer fridge

View from Starbucks 

The infamous Magots where a teensy cup of cafe costs 8 euros