Goodbye Cancun

Biologist/photographer in Action

"Colors de Cancun" having a rest before her next excursion

Me waiting patiently for the evening to begin

View from my lounger at the snorkelling beach

Smiling Iguana ( if you can see his charming smile)

I just got home to blooming azaleas and lilacs; a full month before I've ever seen them here. So it is not the beautiful vegetation and warmth that I am missing but the complete relaxation. I got home to an impeccably clean house ( and even swept back porch) and happy,content animals; so I feel so happy to be home, but still I long for that intense heat, the beautiful food and really - the sweet friendliness of all of the Mexican workers at the resort. Since most of the cliental was from France and quite aloof - I'm not missing the other resort attendees that much. But I would go back in a heart beat. Even Kyr and his friends are potentially planning a end of year celebration there next year which would be perfect for young guys - so many sports to do, so many beautiful G.O. girls. I can't imagine a better time. 

When I was lying there at the snorkelling beach yesterday - looking up from one of my books ( both Kyr and I finished 3 novels - readers paradise!) I spotted a drone flying above the snorkellers - one in particular. No matter what she did the drone was there. I got a really creepy feeling thinking that maybe this is what awaits us - random flying objects that can get obsessed and harass us, with no immediate recourse for the person being harassed. I told Kyr about it when he woke up (hot sun and surf is quite a soporific). He managed to glean while we were leaving the snorkel area that Club Med is trying to start an instagram acct and the film footage from that drone is part of it. The subject of the drone's scrutiny was a young lovely asian girl, so perhaps they are trying to attract the Chinese market.

I had no cell service while I was away and the internet was quite sporadic so contact with my clinic was not as intense as in previous holidays. Sadly, one of my favourite patients died while I was away. It was hard to help manage his case while I was so far away, but with today's technology - they sent me photos of his blood smear etc, I was actually able to see what was happening. I wonder if that is such a good thing. I am very attached to my patients and loathe the idea something might happen to them when I am not there, but now it is almost impossible to escape. So I wonder how much holiday - escape from our daily lives - do people really get anymore? I think it is now the time to recognize that even the most devoted person needs an occasional break from their livelihood. Club Med tries to facilitate that by no having free Wifi and even then very hard to load, blah,blah... but I think the time is coming when we must insist on freedom from contact - at least for a short while - for us to recalibrate. We all need to uplug sometimes.

Isla Mujeres

Mangroves in the distance

Boat ride in the lagoon

Kyr at the north beach of Isla Mujeres

Kyr on the street of Isla Mujeres

Yesterday we started with a boat trip through the lagoon (10miles long), navigating through the mangrove islands and wondering what mammals would live there – just an arboreal existence above water. Too north for monkeys we thought, maybe some bats? The pace of the  boat “Colours of the Carribean” was slow and leisurely and Kyr and I sat confidently on the bow, though afterwards I was stricken with the idea I may not be able to get up again, not like the Barbie where I could lower myself through a portal into the cabin and not actually have to stand up. I spent the journey worried about it, especially when Kyr said the decking was getting slippery from all of the ocean spray. But I surprised myself with the somewhat ease with which I hoisted myself up with the help of the side railings all around the boat. The boat was very stable even when we made our way onto the open ocean, probably because it was a Catamaran. The story of the boat interested me. It apparently sat unused and idle in a marina in Florida for 5 years, when two guys bought it: a guy from Normandy Nico, and a Canadian. They worked on the engine for over a month and then boated across from Florida to Cancun. The journey took them 4 hours. They spent the next 6 months repainting and refurbishing everything, with the idea of doing snorkeling, diving tours. Right now Nico has a contract with Club Med which is good because it is the only resort busy all year because of the Europeans who come even in the summer when the North Americans stay away. They employ 4 local men, the Canadian guy must be a silent partner because only Nico is here running the show. He said that Cancun 40 years ago was 2000 people. With the boom in resorts it has grown to over 1 million. It has grown so quickly that there was no city planning and it is a mishmash with no centre or green spaces. It sounds quite awful. Everyone keeps saying how ugly it is. I wonder about the infrastructure – the sewers, electricity, water… where do they get everything? And horrors of horrors where does everything go?

After a one hour, half the journey in the open ocean, the boat was tied to a bouy where several other boats had collected. We all jumped in (approx 20 people) and  snorkeled. They made us stay very close to our guide who fed the fish during the 45 minute swim, so that we were always in a school of black angel type fish. I found it difficult because it was such a slow pace and it was hard avoiding the other snorkelers. On the whole there weren’t many different fish to see and not much corral, but it was nice being out in the open ocean. My next greatest fear was how to get back on the boat, but once again I surprised myself with my resourcefulness. No one realizes how much lower body strength you require to go up ladders onto a large platform with no handrails. Let me assure you, without any leg strength it is very difficult. Having survived both hurdles, I became more confident leaving the boat. After snorkeling, we boated to Isla Mujeres – a small island with many people roaring around in golf carts. The town was ripe with tourist shops and desperate Mexicans begging you for “just one minute of your time”. I was suckered in repeatedly, in my quest to get change for tipping and trying to find a gift for my worker Karen. The exchange rate is quite confusing and in the end I bought things that I know I paid way too much for, but I feel like these people need whatever money I am able to give them. Afterward we boarded the boat and they anchored off the north beach where we jumped into the truly turquoise water. We floated around while Nico attended to our libations; pouring us mango rum cocktails from his floating cooler. It seemed the height of decadence to be floating in the warm waters, the hot noon sun beating down and sipping a mango drink. As Kyr noted the sea water saltiness of our lips just added the right touch to the drink.

We arrived back at the resort mid afternoon just in for a leisurely lunch at the Mexican restaurant where Kyr forgot his hat. Despite the hundreds of people eating there both at lunch and dinner a most friendly Mexican waiter brought him his hat at the end of supper. We were shocked that he remembered Kyr with all of those other people and Kyr hadn’t even known until that point his hat was missing. It would have been quite the tragedy to lose it, as Kyr is so attached to it that he met me at the Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver wearing it, having sported it all the way from the airport on the sky train. I was giddy at the sight of him in that hat which was quite incongruous for Vancouver, and now I realize not even that common here in the resort -uncommon enough for the waiter to remember. We are going back tonight to tip him. We don’t usually carry money so tipping is a very deliberate and concerted affair. While we sat on the porch the waiter  walked past, smiling and waving. He is very sweet.

Today has just been snorkeling and swimming. Kyr might try sailing tomorrow before we leave at 4:30 pm. It was all booked for today. Tomorrow is the 40^th anniversary  of the resort. I wonder what marvey things that they have planned. I’ll just post this then we’ll head to the common area to check out the activity and have snacks and drinks. I think I was made for resort life. I realize that I have spent many years collecting dresses that are perfect for wearing at resort evenings and not much else. I’ll have to come back several times to be able to showcase all of these dresses accumulated with such a ridiculous fantasy life in mind. What was I thinking???

Club Med Cancun part 2

Kyr's favourite beach activity - already on book 3

Ten of the reasons why if you are planning a trip to an all inclusive on the Yucatan Peninsula you have to stay at the Club Med:

1.The only bit of natural splendour in the resort strip. Club Med is nestled between a fairly protected ocean with the curve and atoll and a natural lagoon that makes the flora and fauna gorgeous and diverse.

2. The only beach for swimming and snorkeling. After my beach walk this morning  to the some of the other resorts abutting this end of the ocean, not only are red flags flying almost all of the time at all the other resorts(meaning you shouldn’t go in), but there were no lifeguards and no shade for any of the lounge chairs. The only beach with green flags and vigilant life guards protecting the beach is Club Med. (They even groom the sand every night which Kyr says is unenvironmental so we will write them and I’m sure they’ll take note.)

3.Happy and friendly local workers. They seem relaxed and not harried, despite the difficulty in tipping anyone and the language barrier.

4. Very attentive conscientious staff. Don’t raise your eyebrows the wrong way or the General Manager himself will rush over eager to placate you and make everything right. And those darling G.O.’s(concierge types) just dance their hearts out every night for our entertainment.

5. Good food with tons of variety. Kyr’s supper last night consisted of frogs legs, sesame coated tuna steaks, rib eye and chicken nuggets with fries. Who could dream up such combos? And to please me, steamed cabbage. Does it get better?

6.It is a paradise for children especially – it is so delightful to see them running around so freely and happily. Dancing the night away with such joy. If only I could bring my nieces here.

7. The opportunity to dress up if you want, or not, no pressure- and just lounge about having snacks and drinks brought to you as you watch people around just having such fun, and seeming so happy and not that addicted to their devices.

8. The feeling of safety – always people placed inconspicuously about keeping  vigilant.

9. The sense that there is always somewhere to go, something to do if you feel inclined.

10. Lots of excursions if you feel like it and the guides are well versed and seem to take extra care compared to other guiding operations we witnessed.

Nicely painted toenails at snorkel beach

Kyr heading to our suite post snorkel

View from the lounge to the main beach

Fresh tailed iguana

Kyr heading to the snorkelling spot (just ahead)

View from our porch

Cancun Club Med

Even Iguana's stop to smell the flowers

When we first arrived, I wondered if I was cut out for the Club Med experience. I am a creature of habit and Hawaii loomed large in my memory with its familiarity and perfection in the tiny details. The idea of being cloistered in a tiny slice of beach down the at the bottom of a densely populated peninsula – huge resorts abutting the slim line of white sand and turquoise Caribbean sea, tall apartment complexes that actually stretch so far that they fade into the mist; made me feel very claustrophobic.  I hanker for the wilderness. During the week we are staying there are 900 other people – families, older couples, happily tucked in with us. The whole thing is  long low white stucco buildings spread out along 2km of  beach.

Iguana paradise

As I started to settle into the rhythm I became very thankful for the beach that we are on. It is the closest to wilderness on the pennisula with natural atolls that block the fierce wave action and lend itself to some protected coral areas for snorkeling. There are no other resorts south of this resort. It was first on the Yucatan peninsula 40 years ago. It still has that isolated dated charm. The rooms remind me of Greece with the twin beds and the Spartan furnishings and the  very faint odour of sewer. It now has merged into an experiential combo of Hawaii and Greece – with the lounging about in the mornings snorkeling, the jungle like flora, the plethora of iguanas, and then the social life at night. There is always some convivial entertainment to attend to every evening. So after we have a little mojito on the porch of our room and watch the ocean, we amble over to the central area. Tonight Kyr said there is a live band. This not having to pay makes dining a very relaxing experience – you never are waiting on the bill. So great.

Mayan Temple at Tulum

The first few days were very hard on me and probably lessened some of the charm because my leg was in such excruciating pain. I don’t think I will ever forgive that renegade dog and owner at Kokanee. The ocean waves were quite fierce and almost knocked me over so I couldn’t get in  on the main beach. The last two days we have been able to snorkel. Quite strong currents, but warm and some interesting fish. Kyr is in love with the new “Snorkl” mask I bought him. I am ordering one for myself as soon as we get home. My leg has settled enough that we were able to attend to some Mayan ruins. My ideas of functioning without a brace were very short lived. The combo of brace and 5 toes footware is making people quite considerate of my slowness on stairs etc… The lifeguard at snorkeling even gave me the thumbs up with the most unorthodox way I have to get myself in and out of the water.

Burnt girl at Tulum

Despite lathering on sunscreen, Kyr and I are burnt to a crisp. We spent quite a time in the shop discussing the benefits of those available  - since neither of us can read Spanish, in hopes of finally finding a product that works.

Mexican sea and sky

Happy mother and son at Mayan Ruins

Mayan ruin Iguanas

Mariachi band playing just for us a happy song

Kyr at lunch in the Mexican Restaurant Club Med Cancun

Kyr frolicking on the path leading back to the main club.

Writing in San Francisco

Fort Mason Centre

Cyclamens and Begonias fill the planter boxes at this time of year. That is practically all I notice as I walk around the city in a daze, trying to recover from the intellectual exhaustion of the Tom Jenks writing course. The course ran from Thursday until Sunday night. Practically 12 hour days. Maybe because the cost of the course was so dear, or maybe his passion is just that intense, but Tom just socks it to you; creating an idea of literature that is practically an animate creature. And with his subtle ministrations you feel you can create and appreciate all this animal has to offer. Under his tutelage Mrs Dalloway could become a months study in itself. I believe him. And I also believe that it would not be boring but almost too exhilarating. He said that when we were finished that we should not go right back to our writing work; we should just let it infiltrate our subconscious. I think it is because it was an intellectual boot camp and we have been indoctrinated and need to come out the other side seeing the world anew. I am grateful for all I learned. His passion is infectious. I had a difficult time getting a read from him about my novel. He seemed very engaged by the story that I told him and said that I am one of only a few people that actually tell the story instead of talking about the novel. He said that I can't end it where I want to - it is not enough to have the main character believe that she is changed - I actually have to demonstrate it. When I quizzed him as to whether I was conveying the story well in the first 20 pages all he said is - it needs some work but you'll do it, you're smart. Not so comforting compared to the great details he went into with the other students. So I'm not sure how to take it.

View from the Wharf

Class of Diligent Exhausted Writers and Tom Jenks

View from my terrace

Since the course I have been hunkered down in my Fairmont suite - only occasionally emerging to walk the streets of downtown - agonizing about the down part and loving the uphill. The course was held in a converted military base in the Marina district right beside Fisherman's Wharf. I took a cab there every morning and loved the intense steep walk back up in the evening. Usually it was raining hard and my umbrella kept inverting in the winds off the bay but it was cathartic to pound up the steep inclines - felt good because my knee was painless in the uphill portions but over night swelled to nasty proportions and difficulty navigating until the nighttime climb again. I had to relent and take the elevator to class because I just couldn't do the stairs and hold my 2 teas. I wasn't able to stay at the Fairmont the first night and stayed at the Sheraton Fisherman's Wharf. It was ok but the relief I felt upon getting to the Fairmont was unparalleled. I felt that I finally could relax. The Sheraton was massive and all the patrons had that anxious air of being in transit - like the airport waiting areas. Whereas at the Fairmont it feels like people stay put. The staff are engaging. One bus boy in the lounge is particularly pleased to see me every evening, or at least he seems that way. I was really punished in my last relationship about my love for the Fairmont. I was made to feel like it was a blight on my character, even to the degree that his relatives in Holland took me aside to ask about my love for the hotel chain - as if he had told them it was a fatal flaw and they were desperate to understand it. Away from that condemnation, I can say that for someone like me who has a lot of anxiety and a desperate need for home comforts, it has proved to be a wonderful balm. I know that if I am travelling, especially on my own, I will have a warm comfortable place to retreat to where I feel safe and cosseted.

Bombay Suite Terrace