The Narrow Streets of Paris

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Another Narrow Parisian Street 

Where the Seine diverges

Walking on the Lower cobblestone  walkway of the Seine

Yesterday we walked to the Champs Elysees. All through this trip the song from Grade nine was ringing through my head "Au Champs Elysees.... Au soleil , Sous la pluie...A midi ou a minuit..."
I even won the french prize for the whole school that year. My present was a book of Paris  and my teacher (Caroline help me here)  - whom I adored - told me that I would spend much lovely time in Paris. It has only taken almost 35 years. I feel like I let him down. I didn't turn into the Francophile globe trotter that he thought I would. Oh well I have enjoyed it. Walking around in the sunlight in a less dense tourist time, has been lovely. I realize that I have liked it in not the way I was lead to believe I would. I thought through different messages that I would find that Paris was the consummate taste connoisseur - that anything to do with wine, food, fashion, design - was just better in Paris. The food is definitely tastey and well thought out but not really to my taste - I like a lot more vegetables and fruit, the fashion is nice. Fabrics and tailoring details that I have not seen elsewhere - makes me think of homemade - attainable by those with the desire and effort at home; and you have to love the way the french are put out - meaning seeing them on the street. I have especially loved the older ladies with their coloured tights and nice fitting jackets. I love the men with their shoes, hats and scarves . On the whole I love the effort that goes into going out. But I think that has more to do with the sport of walking the streets. People are out to see and be seen - so in fact walking about Paris is like going to a club at home - for sure people dress for the occasion. I had a tiny moment of actually feeling insecure by their snobbery today. I have had such a hard time getting gifts while I am here. Things don't look that novel and they are extraordinarily expensive. I had searched far and wide for a leather bag for Joop. Holland was a write off even though my favourite bag is from Holland, because the bags there simply didn't have enough pockets. I finally got some time alone today to be able to buy Joop a bag that I had my eye on - but since bags are in shoe stores it meant that I had to go into the shoe stores in my 5 toe wonders - the collective horror with which I was greeted and the complete reluctance to help me when I pointed to a bag - meant that I had to leave 2 shoe stores. These are hard economic times still in Europe and often I was the only customer with at least 4 employees, but still a complete ostratization of me while they stared at my feet, and this is when I felt that I looked stylish enough above the knees. I ended up buying myself a coat. I decided that the only things worth buying here are those made in France by local designers. The coat I fell in love with is very unique. I went  by the shop several times trying to justify it. When I went in the first time, the proprietoress ignored me and this time said "I recognize you by your feet". She had noted the footwear before and decided to ignore me. It was almost enough to make me walk out. In fact the only things that I have been compelled to buy are for Hippoworth and Joop is horrified. He claims that Horace will drown in al the presents that I buy. 

The Eiffel Tower

Statue at the beginning of the Champs Elysees

Having finally made it to L'Arc de Triomphe

La Conciergerie on the First Island in the setting sun

Our handy Starbucks location

Girl walking dog

One of the things that I have noticed is that there are a fair number of dogs about ( a disproportionate amount of dog poo) but many of them are being dragged about like this dog in the picture. It is not like they are heeling nicely - they are way behind. That would be the day my dogs didn't charge ahead. In fact I don't think they could cope with Paris - they would be lunging forth and causing me much grief because charging ahead is not a Parisian dog thing. 

The other thing that I have noted is the huge number of homeless, begging women and even women and children. Coming home from the Musee d'Orsay tonight we passed three groups of young mothers with children  all bundled up in fleece blankets, leaning against the building - some kids eating apples. They all seemed very jolly  for a heading into a chilly night without food and shelter. I thought that France had a good welfare support network. I wonder if these people are immigrants that have slipped through the cracks.

Lady in Apartment across from our Hotel

I have watched this lady  in the apartment across the street every day that we have been here. Most days she appears at the window near 10am. She watches the action on the street for about 20mins and then she takes her walker an very slowly moves out of sight. Most days she is in a white nightie; today she was wearing a burgundy outfit so perhaps she was going out. I wonder about her life because there are never any lights on in the evening. She moves very slowly. I hope that she has someone to help her.

Joop at Musse d'Orsay

I got to see my most favourite artist today. Normally I have only seen his pictures in books and calendars, today many large canavases - Eduard Vuillard. My love for him has only deepened - seeing all of his canvases. I remember going to the Saskatoon library over 20 years ago and taking out the one book on him repeatedly.

Last night we ended up at a small restaurant where we were squished between two tables -the one on our left turned out to be 2 Parisians that have frequented the restaurant for over 45 years  - going from Proprietor's father to son. They engaged us despite my non existent french and an american couple on our right tried to translate for us. The americans were one of those wine and food couples. He edits a magazine based out of New York on organic wine and they were here for some tastings. I tried valiantly to promote the organic Okanagan wine. When I asked them what was the number one thing to do in Paris as we had only one day left - they said quite stunned - well eat and drink, oh yah, try to see some museums. 

So that has been ultimately what we did - I would say walk, walk, walk, then eat and drink and then Museums. I will miss it. We leave very early tomorrow for almost a 24 hour journey home.

The favourite bike of Parisians