Isla Mujeres

Mangroves in the distance

Boat ride in the lagoon

Kyr at the north beach of Isla Mujeres

Kyr on the street of Isla Mujeres

Yesterday we started with a boat trip through the lagoon (10miles long), navigating through the mangrove islands and wondering what mammals would live there – just an arboreal existence above water. Too north for monkeys we thought, maybe some bats? The pace of the  boat “Colours of the Carribean” was slow and leisurely and Kyr and I sat confidently on the bow, though afterwards I was stricken with the idea I may not be able to get up again, not like the Barbie where I could lower myself through a portal into the cabin and not actually have to stand up. I spent the journey worried about it, especially when Kyr said the decking was getting slippery from all of the ocean spray. But I surprised myself with the somewhat ease with which I hoisted myself up with the help of the side railings all around the boat. The boat was very stable even when we made our way onto the open ocean, probably because it was a Catamaran. The story of the boat interested me. It apparently sat unused and idle in a marina in Florida for 5 years, when two guys bought it: a guy from Normandy Nico, and a Canadian. They worked on the engine for over a month and then boated across from Florida to Cancun. The journey took them 4 hours. They spent the next 6 months repainting and refurbishing everything, with the idea of doing snorkeling, diving tours. Right now Nico has a contract with Club Med which is good because it is the only resort busy all year because of the Europeans who come even in the summer when the North Americans stay away. They employ 4 local men, the Canadian guy must be a silent partner because only Nico is here running the show. He said that Cancun 40 years ago was 2000 people. With the boom in resorts it has grown to over 1 million. It has grown so quickly that there was no city planning and it is a mishmash with no centre or green spaces. It sounds quite awful. Everyone keeps saying how ugly it is. I wonder about the infrastructure – the sewers, electricity, water… where do they get everything? And horrors of horrors where does everything go?

After a one hour, half the journey in the open ocean, the boat was tied to a bouy where several other boats had collected. We all jumped in (approx 20 people) and  snorkeled. They made us stay very close to our guide who fed the fish during the 45 minute swim, so that we were always in a school of black angel type fish. I found it difficult because it was such a slow pace and it was hard avoiding the other snorkelers. On the whole there weren’t many different fish to see and not much corral, but it was nice being out in the open ocean. My next greatest fear was how to get back on the boat, but once again I surprised myself with my resourcefulness. No one realizes how much lower body strength you require to go up ladders onto a large platform with no handrails. Let me assure you, without any leg strength it is very difficult. Having survived both hurdles, I became more confident leaving the boat. After snorkeling, we boated to Isla Mujeres – a small island with many people roaring around in golf carts. The town was ripe with tourist shops and desperate Mexicans begging you for “just one minute of your time”. I was suckered in repeatedly, in my quest to get change for tipping and trying to find a gift for my worker Karen. The exchange rate is quite confusing and in the end I bought things that I know I paid way too much for, but I feel like these people need whatever money I am able to give them. Afterward we boarded the boat and they anchored off the north beach where we jumped into the truly turquoise water. We floated around while Nico attended to our libations; pouring us mango rum cocktails from his floating cooler. It seemed the height of decadence to be floating in the warm waters, the hot noon sun beating down and sipping a mango drink. As Kyr noted the sea water saltiness of our lips just added the right touch to the drink.

We arrived back at the resort mid afternoon just in for a leisurely lunch at the Mexican restaurant where Kyr forgot his hat. Despite the hundreds of people eating there both at lunch and dinner a most friendly Mexican waiter brought him his hat at the end of supper. We were shocked that he remembered Kyr with all of those other people and Kyr hadn’t even known until that point his hat was missing. It would have been quite the tragedy to lose it, as Kyr is so attached to it that he met me at the Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver wearing it, having sported it all the way from the airport on the sky train. I was giddy at the sight of him in that hat which was quite incongruous for Vancouver, and now I realize not even that common here in the resort -uncommon enough for the waiter to remember. We are going back tonight to tip him. We don’t usually carry money so tipping is a very deliberate and concerted affair. While we sat on the porch the waiter  walked past, smiling and waving. He is very sweet.

Today has just been snorkeling and swimming. Kyr might try sailing tomorrow before we leave at 4:30 pm. It was all booked for today. Tomorrow is the 40^th anniversary  of the resort. I wonder what marvey things that they have planned. I’ll just post this then we’ll head to the common area to check out the activity and have snacks and drinks. I think I was made for resort life. I realize that I have spent many years collecting dresses that are perfect for wearing at resort evenings and not much else. I’ll have to come back several times to be able to showcase all of these dresses accumulated with such a ridiculous fantasy life in mind. What was I thinking???